A313 is one of the most popular French pharmacy products, but does it actually live up to the hype? Here, Vogue explores the retinoid’s popularity and gets the inside scoop on its benefits.A313 is one of the most popular French pharmacy products, but does it actually live up to the hype? Here, Vogue explores the retinoid’s popularity and gets the inside scoop on its benefits.
Rarely do I succumb to a TikTok beauty product recommendation. But the A313 Vitamin A pomade has been in my orbit long before social media claimed it; for years many of my US editor friends and go-to beauty experts have raved about its effects on skin. So now that my algorithm is being fed an endless amount of French pharmacy hauls, I finally made it a goal to brave the Paris summer crowds at the Pharmacie Citypharma on 26 Rue du Four to buy my first tube.
To my surprise, the French don’t actually consider A313 an anti-aging skincare product. As Natacha Bonjout, French pharmacist and founder of Bonjout Beauty, explains, it has been used for decades as more of a functional medicine. “The reality is more nuanced,” Bonjout says. “The product is old, but the story around it is new.”
Besides the moisturizing feel of the cream (when used in thin layers, it feels lightweight and great on skin), the results speak for themselves. Many claim smoother and brighter skin in just a matter of weeks without the irritation other retinols might come with. “Its charm lies in its restraint,” she adds. “That’s really what has made the product so beloved.”
My Experience With A313
I break out in the exact spot on my chin every month. It’s a deep, red hormonal pimple that comes out in sync with my menstrual cycle (or whenever I’m stressed and getting next to no sleep). When one of my breakouts coincided with my go-to mandelic acid serum running it out, I figured I should try the A313 cream I bought from that trip to Paris. It turned out to be one of the best skin decisions I’ve ever made.
After spot treating it for a couple of days, that pimple was noticeably less red and had reduced significantly in size; no longer was it the most dominant thing on my face. After a few weeks and spreading the cream all over my face, I noticed my skin looked more radiant, and felt softer and firmer. After a few months, people kept commenting how good my skin has been looking. There was even a short period of time where I was dealing with some milia under both my eyes. I reached for this and applied a very thin layer in my undereye area to help exfoliate, and the milia for the most part went away. Even though it was never intended to be used for these skin concerns, I’m glad I used it anyway. It’s my miracle worker.
A313
Vitamin A Pommade
Everything You Need to Know
Is A313 a good retinol?
A313 is a good option for those who might be struggling to tolerate stronger retinol, says Regine J. Mathieu, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist and Skin of Color Society member. It has a rich ointment base, which Dr. Mathieu says may feel more moisturizing than traditional formulations that can be drying.
Is A313 stronger than tretinoin?
No, A313 is not stronger than tretinoin. As Bonjout explains, A313 contains a vitamin A derivative (the retinyl esters), but the skin has to convert it before it becomes active. Tretinoin by comparison, doesn’t have to be converted and is already active. It also has a pretty low retinol count once converted: about 0.06% retinol. “I would never describe [A313] as a French equivalent of prescription tretinoin,” she says. “That doesn’t make it better or worse; it simply means you need to understand what you’re using and why.”
Dr. Mathieu adds that the extra process of conversion typically means less irritation, but also less potency, compared with traditional retinol or prescribed tretinoin. “If a comparison must be made, think of it as the greatest form of retinol you’ll find on the market,” Carbonari agrees.
How long before you see results with A313?
“With any retinoid, I tell patients to think in months, not weeks,” says Dr. Mathieu. Even though you might have the same experience I did and notice an improvement in texture and radiance earlier, she says she would give A313 approximately three to six months of consistent use before deciding how well it is working for your skin.
How do you use A313?
Carbonari says that French girls use this as they would any other medication product: sparingly and never across the whole face. “The biggest mistake is assuming that because A313 comes from a French pharmacy, it must automatically be gentle. It is vitamin A, and it needs to be treated as an active,” Bonjout agrees.
For those who don’t want to do it the French way and are looking to use it as more than just a spot treatment, Dr. Mathieu recommends starting “low and slow.” Use a pea-sized amount to the entire face two or three nights per week. Then you can gradually increase how often you want to use it if your skin reacts positively to it. Pair it with a very gentle moisturizer when you use it at night, and in the morning make sure you always use sunscreen.
She also wants to remind everyone that if you’re experiencing persistent peeling, burning, redness, or redness, scale back. Those with sensitive, acne-prone, or congested skin will always want to be mindful, but as always the best product—and in this case retinoid—is the one that works well for you. “The best retinoid isn’t necessarily the strongest one,” she says. “It’s the one your skin can tolerate consistently enough to actually see results.”
How We Tested
When we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue’s vast network of experts—from board-certified dermatologists to celebrity estheticians—to gain professional acumen on the industry’s standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.
As it relates to A313 retinol, we selected the best based on the following characteristics: ingredients, potency, texture, packaging, finish, and the skin-care concerns they address. To do this, we paired our own personal tests of each formula with expert guidance and reviewer insights to determine which we would recommend to you. Read more about our testing methodology here.
Meet the Experts
- Sophie Carbonari is a Paris-based esthetician.
- Natacha Bonjout is a French pharmacist and founder of Bonjout Beauty.
- Regine J. Mathieu MD, FAAD is a board-certified dermatologist and Skin of Color Society member.
