Breaking down the brands that are doing more than just incorporating Korean culture into their fragrances.Breaking down the brands that are doing more than just incorporating Korean culture into their fragrances.
Korean beauty is a big deal in America. At Sephora, brands such as Beauty of Joseon and Aestura nestled against the likes of Rhode and Clarins. Olive Young, the juggernaut South Korean makeup and skin care chain, is slated to open their first U.S. location in Los Angeles this month. And while most people are fairly familiar with K-beauty, they might be less so with K-fragrance, although that’s beginning to change.
The K-fragrance wave is coming, and it looks very different from the traditional perfume shelf. On social media, foreign travelers in Seoul marvel at the art installations at Tamburins, the scent-focused offshoot of Gentle Monster, the beloved eyewear brand. Or consider Nonfiction, another Seoul-based perfume and body care brand founded by Haeyoung Cha, that just expanded to New York City. Days before the shop formally opened, hopeful customers were already peeking into its doors.
Like all things that span cultures and countries, this K-fragrance wave is not a monolith. Elorea, founded by Wonny Lee and Su Min Park, is a great example of that. “We were born in New York City, so while our roots and inspiration are deeply Korean, we’ve always approached fragrance through a global lens,” said Lee. As such they use notes like Korean lily of the valley, soy sauce as well as more familiar ingredients like orange flower water, sandalwood, amber and musk.
“[We’re] centered around balance and obsessed with juxtapositions that work — modernity and tradition, wearability and originality. We spend a lot of time sourcing unique ingredients and building stories around them in a way that feels elevated but still approachable.”
With names like Hanok (the term for a traditional house), Git (the collar found on a traditional dress called a hanbok), and Haenyo (a reference to the female divers in Jeju), each builds a bridge between the West and the founders’ Eastern roots.
su min park
Conversely, Cha’s approach to Nonfiction more closely reflects how a Seoul-based brand incorporates established fragrance traditions, adapting them for the local customer base.
“In many Western markets, there tends to be a stronger emphasis on individuality and bold self-expression, while in Asia, people are often drawn to beauty that feels more natural and understated. Perfume reflects that sensibility as well. Rather than making a strong statement, many people are drawn to scents that feel harmonious and a part of everyday life,” she said.
Remaining true to these convictions, her brand is taking this approach global and it’s resonating. Gentle Night, with its fig, white tea, and suede notes, is a top seller both in New York and in Asia. That’s not to say that there aren’t some geographical differences, “In NYC, there’s definitely a stronger response to fragrances with deeper bases and more distinctive character. Because the city itself has such strong energy and individuality, it often feels less like simply ‘smelling good’ and more like a form of self-expression.” As such For Rest, which features hinoki and Turkish rose are hits here while in Seoul, cleaner smells are more popular.
Regardless, both brands are hopeful for this emerging interest in Korean scents. “For a long time, perfume has been heavily centered around European heritage houses. Consumers today are much more open to discovering new perspectives, ingredients, and stories, and Korean culture has become an important part of that conversation,” said Lee.
As for Cha, she’s excited to see how her line is embraced not just as a product but folded into someone’s lifestyle but acknowledges that it’s a part of a bigger global conversation. “People are becoming increasingly curious not only about Korean beauty, but about [our] culture more broadly, including fashion, design, space and lifestyle.”
The K-fragrance wave is only just beginning but if K-beauty has set any expectations, it’s all but destined to be a buzzy topic for years to come.
