The ’90s-inspired style is getting a 2026 refresh.The ’90s-inspired style is getting a 2026 refresh.
For years jewelry has been quiet, with delicate rings, earrings and thin chains being the norm. It was something you’d wear on a daily basis, reflective of your personal style. But the recent spring 2026 collections reflected a shift — necklaces suddenly went from being a whisper of a suggestion to bigger and bolder. Whether it was the sculptural silver pendants at Ralph Lauren, the shells dangling from the necks of models at Tory Burch, or the gold coins at Hermès, the amulet necklace has emerged as a refreshing counterpoint. And it’s not just on the runways either, as brands like Sophie Buhai and Jennifer Behr have seen a sharp uptick of interest in their versions of the silhouette.
Reminiscent of the charms on black cords that were popular during the 1990s and early 2000s, the 2026 rendition is louder and feels like a reaction to how people have adapted their approach to dressing.
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“[They] want something special that no one else has. Fashion has started to look homogenous; jewelry is a way to have a personal human touch and a story,” Buhai said of the pivot from tiny, barely-there gold pieces to talisman-like adornments. Behr added, “The long pendant silhouette has become very popular because clothing has become monochromatic and minimal lately. When you have a plain front shirt or dress it becomes the perfect canvas for layering jewelry and the long dramatic necklace can be perfect for that.”
Courtesy of Sophie Buhahi
To keep it current, both designers agree that the modern-day amulet necklace is an art piece that spans references from mythology to design eras to the natural world. Be it tassels, silver or special stones and crystals. Behr approaches her pieces with careful attention to detail.
“We use mixed material in all of our pendants that make them feel purposefully collected. In our recent collaboration with Julia Berolzheimer, the Montagu Necklace has a pendant made of turquoise, pink opal, lime jade, reconstituted coral and it’s such a gorgeous piece,” she explained.
For Buhai, her stone creations and full moon pendants are among her top sellers. She approaches her work acknowledging the past but with an eye on the future. “Designs from the ’90s still look modern. But I’m trying to make mini sculptures, it’s like a talisman. That ancient desire to wear something for protection and good luck makes sense now, when things in the world feel uncertain.”
Courtesy of Jennifer Behr
As for advice on how to incorporate the look into your own wardrobe, Buhai emphasized that unlike delicate personal pieces, which fade into the background, these pendants command attention.
“Keep your clothing simple, let the necklace do the talking.” And think outside of the box: “Depending on the length and closure, you can wear them hanging down your back with a backless dress or top,” Behr advised. However they’re incorporated, expect to see them everywhere over the next few months.
